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acid-balanced waves
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not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added hear of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
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acid-balanced waves
not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added hear of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves
alkaline waves (or cold waves)
have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioflycolate 9ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature
amino acids
compunds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen
ammonia-free waves
perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor.
base cream or protective base cream
oily cream used to prote ct teh skin adn scalp during hair relaxing
base control
position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped
base direction
andle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped
base placement
the postion of the rod in relation to its base section, and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. The rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base.
base relaxers
require the application of a base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer
base sections
subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping;one rod is normally placed on each base section.
basic perm wrap
perm wrap in which all the rods within the panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.
bookend wrap
perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
bricklay perm wrap
perm wrap similar to actual tecnique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from eachother row by row.
chemical hair relaxing
rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
chemical texture services
hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.
concave rods
perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
cortex
middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible lenght and elasticity of human hair
croquignole perm
perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers
curvature perm wrap
perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curbature of the head
disulfide bonds
chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bods can onlu be broken by chemicals and connot be broken by heat or water
double flat wrap
one end paper is placed under and one end paper is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped
double-rod (piggyback) technique
perm wrap in whcih two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other
endothermic waves
perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood type hair dryer
end papers or end wraps
absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm tools
exothermic waves
creates an exothermic chemical retion that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing
glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
half off-base placement
base control in which the hair wrapped at an angle of 90 defrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is poitioned half off its base section
hydrogen bonds
weak phusical bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite eltrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools
hydroxide neutralization
the neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair andd scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfied bonds.
hydroxide relaxers
very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
lanthionization
process by which hydrogen relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthioine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair
loop or circle rod
tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter alond the entire length of the rod
low-pH waves
perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites. and bisulfates as an alternative to ammonium thyglocate
medulla
innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair
metal hydroxide relaxers
ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen
no-base relaxers
relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream
normalizing lotions
conditioners that restore the ahir's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing
off-base placement
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its basesection
peptide bonds or end bonds
chemical bonds that join amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
polypeptide bonds
long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds
salt bonds
relatively weak phusical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and reform whtn the pH returns to normal.
side bonds
disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.
single flat wrap
perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but usees only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
soft bender rods
tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foarm rods hace a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent in to almost any shape
spiral perm wrap
hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the ahir to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the frip on a tennis racket.
straight rods
perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area
thioglycolic acid
colorless liquid with a strong unpleasent odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions
thio neutralization
stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebilds the hair in its new curly form
thio-free waves
perm that usees cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thiglyglocolate as the primary reducing agent
true acid waves
have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves
weave technique
wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)
active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
on-base placement
base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree anglebeyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section
soft curl permanent
combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger or looser
thio relaxers
use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used inpermanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10)
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